Day 3 on the Camino: From Zubiri to Pamplona

Restless Beginnings

There’s something deeply humbling about walking a path that millions have trodden before. As I make my way through the third day of my Camino journey, I’m reminded that some pilgrims wait decades to experience what I’m privileged to be doing for the second time.

The morning began with heavy eyelids, the aftermath of another restless night. Sleep evaded me yet again, likely due to those short, innocent naps I took after arriving at the albergue. A pilgrim’s alarm blaring at 3 AM only added to my frustration – a reminder that on this shared journey, our actions ripple through others’ experiences.

Waterlogged Paths

Yesterday’s thunderstorm in Zubiri left its mark on today’s path. I ignored my own advice and wore trainers instead of sandals, a decision my feet quickly regretted. Where paths should have been, small rivers flowed, soaking through to my socks within minutes. Though it wasn’t raining today, the impact of yesterday’s downpour meant wading through streams and mud.

Companions on the Way

An hour outside Zubiri, just as I finished my morning rosary, an Irishman joined me. We walked together to Larrasoaña, sharing stories of Ireland, where I lived for eleven years before returning to Poland earlier this year. Good conversation has a way of making kilometers disappear beneath your feet.

In Larrasoaña, I stopped at a bar for breakfast and to change my drenched shoes. Two guitarists filled the space with music – one of those unexpected gifts that energize a weary pilgrim. I washed my mud-caked trainers, not wanting to soil my backpack, and continued onward.

Energy booster

Mountain Vistas and Festivities

The sun finally emerged about eight kilometers before Pamplona, offering hope that my shoes might dry. The mountains before Villava revealed breathtaking panoramas that justified every challenging step. In Villava itself, a festival was underway, with “giants” parading through streets – a curious déjà vu from my 2019 journey when I crossed these same paths.

Listening to My Body

Entering Pamplona, the city blended seamlessly with its outskirts. Initially, I planned to continue to Cizur Menor, where I stayed during my previous Camino, hoping to experience the monks’ evening singing. But my body spoke clearly – I was exhausted, undernourished, and the darkening sky threatened rain. Wisdom prevailed, and I turned back to Albergue Jesus y María in Pamplona.

This proved fortuitous, as I discovered my attempt to dry shoes on my backpack had dampened both it and my sleeping bag. Sometimes, the Camino’s lessons come through our mistakes.

Prayers for Sunshine

There’s a gentle irony in praying for sun yesterday, only to realize my sun hat was buried deep in my pack when the rays finally appeared. Now I find myself praying for sunshine again, walking in its path whenever possible to dry my yesterday washed hoodie as I wear it.

Note to Self

Remain grateful and practice giving thanks. While I shiver slightly in my damp clothes, I remember this journey is a privilege denied to many. The Camino continues to teach that discomfort and blessing often walk hand in hand.