The darkness surprised me as I set out at 6:10 this morning, a stark contrast to my June Camino of 2019 when the early hours were already bathed in light. Thankful for the small lamp affixed to my backpack, I found my way forward through the shadows.
Early Morning Departures and Dark Woodland Paths
The path to Burguete unfolded quickly through serene woodlands, a gentle beginning to what would become a far more demanding day. Beyond Burguete, I searched in vain for an open café, eventually settling beneath an umbrella beside a vending machine for a sweet drink when the skies opened without warning.
When Rain Transforms the Camino: Navigating the “Mudness”
What followed was not madness but “mudness” – the trail transformed into a slippery challenge with each step. I regretted not switching to sandals as the path grew increasingly saturated.
The final stretch proved most difficult – at least six kilometers of rocky terrain with rainwater flowing between stones, creating treacherous passages that left fellow pilgrims visibly anxious. At moments, every possible route seemed fraught with danger.
Finding Strength in Pilgrim Companionship
Salvation came in the form of companionship when, struggling up a steep hill, I met a pilgrim from Macau. We supported each other through intermittent walking and resting, parting and reuniting, until finally reaching Zubiri together. Though we briefly considered continuing to Larrasoaña, the unexpected cold and uncertainty about available beds convinced us to secure our places in Zubiri’s municipal albergue instead.
Note to Self
I must abandon all expectations. This path, identical in geography to my 2019 journey, presents itself as entirely different under May’s temperamental skies. Yet this revelation brings clarity: I walk not for weather, nor to recreate past experiences. I walk because I am called, using this sacred time to pray for my marriage and the sacramental union my husband and I are preparing to enter.
Day Summary
Distance: 23km (though the official map claimed 21km) crossed in 6,5 hours
Total Cost: €49,30 (€3,50 for breakfast and provisions, €4.30 for water as fountains were scarce, €15 for accommodation,€15.50 for dinner, €5 for drinks, €3 for laundry, €3 for the dryer)
Calories burned: ~2,000
The day’s difficulty has left me exhausted, but there is poetry in perseverance, beauty in the mud-spattered journey, and grace in unexpected friendships formed on challenging paths.
