A Morning of Mindful Beginnings

I woke naturally at 5:15, before my alarm, but embraced a new approach today: not rushing. I remembered Lizzie, a colleague with whom I worked in a nursing home in Bray, who never hurried yet always finished on time. Taking her wisdom to heart, I slowly treated my blisters, packed methodically, and braided my hair without haste.

Leaving Estella shortly after 6:00, I walked through landscapes that shifted between majestic rocky mountains and sometimes dusty, less picturesque areas of Spain—a perfect metaphor for life’s journey and the sacramental marriage I’m preparing for with Ken. There will be beautiful vistas and challenging stretches, and we must walk graciously through all of them.

I hardly noticed when Estella transitioned into Ayegui, the rocky mountains majestically hovering over the towns while some buildings appeared collapsed and falling apart—not the picturesque Spain of postcards, but the raw, dusty Spain of real life.

Irache: The Wedding at Cana

A beautiful synchronicity unfolded as I approached the famous Fountain of Wine in Irache. This generous gift from Bodegas Irache to pilgrims has flowed since 1991—a source of comfort and celebration on the ancient path. The stone fountain stands proudly next to the monastery, offering both wine and water to weary travelers.

Just as I began praying the rosary mystery of the Wedding at Cana, I arrived at this sacred spot. The God-incidence sent shivers down my spine—here I was, contemplating Jesus’ first miracle while standing before flowing wine. Though the fountain was barely dripping today, I managed to collect a few precious drops in my bottle—enough to toast to happiness as the inscription suggests.

In this moment, time seemed to fold upon itself. At Cana, Jesus asked the servants to fill massive stone jars with water—their household’s entire security, their certainty poured out in trust. In surrendering this safety net, they witnessed divine alchemy: ordinary water transformed into extraordinary wine.

Is this not the essence of pilgrimage? To pour out what we cling to, to empty ourselves of certainty, and to witness transformation? The wine at Cana nourished celebration, just as the wine at Mass becomes Christ’s blood—nourishment for our souls’ journey. What other god works in such circles of grace, providing exactly what we need at each bend in the road, transforming our ordinary offerings into extraordinary gifts

I filled my water bottle at the adjacent tap and smiled at the thought—perhaps Jesus would transform this too. The mysteries of faith and pilgrimage intertwine like braided paths across these ancient hills.

Azqueta: A Place of Rest

In Azqueta, I enjoyed a marvelous break at a bar with comfortable recliner chairs and a healthy breakfast sandwich. The Dutch owner shared how he had walked the Camino years ago, volunteered in Santiago, and eventually bought this bar, saying that “owning it makes him being on pilgrimage every day.” (For the full story of the bar owner in Azqueta, you’ll need to walk the Camino yourself! Some stories are meant to be discovered on the Way.)

His words reminded me that we are all pilgrims, though we often forget this truth while rushing between work and home, stuck in traffic or consumption, constantly feeling we need more. Do we remember that we are on pilgrimage every day?

Villamayor de Monjardín: Memories Surface

Passing through Villamayor de Monjardín (where I stayed in 2019), I recalled yesterday’s emotion when looking back at Puente la Reina—that constriction in my heart realizing I would only pass through these places once per Camino. This was my wake-up call to slow down, to soak in each landscape, to be on the journey rather than rushing toward the destination.

I remembered how light and effortless my 2019 Camino felt, completing it in just 30 days. This time, there’s more resistance—I need to engage my spirit to keep both body and mind moving forward. I want to nourish myself with this journey, and just as there can be fast food, there cannot be fast pilgrimage.

The Italian Connection

An Italian man joined me for part of today’s walk, sharing similar reflections on slowing down and being “one with the way.” We discussed our homelands and roots, which resonated deeply with my challenging transition back to Poland after 11 years in Ireland. His insight that “our roots are deeply embedded” and “we carry the land we were born in inside us” was exactly what I needed to hear.

Los Arcos: Journey’s End for Today

The final kilometers to Los Arcos offered pleasant walking through fields with mountains on the horizon and church towers protruding from the hills. I arrived by 11:30, found several albergues already full, and waited until noon for Casa de Austria to open. Being first in line secured me a lower bunk, blessed with a hot shower and—uniquely—warm water for laundry!

With tomorrow’s 28km ahead, I treated myself to a massage to prepare my muscles for the challenge. The day closed with a simple pizza dinner and deep contentment.

Note for Self:

Festina lente – “Hurry slowly.” Today’s journey taught me the wisdom in these ancient words. Each step on the Camino offers its own gifts when we’re present enough to receive them. In slowing down, I discovered more richness in less distance—the paradox of pilgrimage is that when we cease rushing toward Santiago, the Way itself becomes our destination.

Summary:

• Distance: Estella to Los Arcos (21 km)
• Towns: Estella → Ayegui → Irache → Azqueta → Villamayor de Monjardín → Los Arcos
• Time: 6:00-11:30
• Daily expenses: €40.50 (Breakfast €4.50, Accommodation €12, Massage €15, Dinner €9)
• Accommodation: Casa de Austria (€12)

Tomorrow, the journey continues as the path unfolds toward Logroño—a longer stretch that will test both body and spirit. But tonight, I rest in the wisdom of slowing down, carrying today’s lessons forward step by step.